A Savory Tart Made From Yesterday’s Risotto

When repurposed ingredients are better the next day

Edward Schneider
Heated

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Photo: Kuvona/Getty Images

When Jackie and I have a yen for rice pudding, I make it using Mark Bittman’s nearly hands-off technique — but I always use risotto-style rice and, generally, vanilla, plus a few raisins. And I try to make enough to allow for leftovers, from which I make a delicious dessert tart along the lines of an Italian torta di riso: All it takes is eggs or egg yolks, and maybe some added milk or cream for a mixture that I spoon into a previously baked tart shell and bake again until the filling is set. This is a lovely thing at any time of the day.

In thinking about first courses for a dinner party a couple of weeks ago, I settled on the notion of a rice tart along those lines, but a savory one. Such tarts are great for company: They’re unusual and they’re easy to serve. This is assuming the tart also tastes good. This seasonal version certainly does, with winter squash melted into the rice and the crunch of toasted walnuts.

It starts with preparation a day or two ahead. First, make enough plain pastry dough to line a 9-inch tart pan: 4 ounces of butter rubbed (or food-processed) into 6 ounces of flour, plus salt, and enough cold water to hold it together (there may be a little leftover). Chill overnight, tightly wrapped.

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