Why a Starter Requires Such Different Technique Than Commercial Yeast in Bread Baking
Autolyse, folding, and ultra-wet dough
When I started baking with a levain, or starter, I was mystified at a number of completely different techniques than those I used with yeasted dough. The dough was incredibly wet and sticky, almost impossible to knead. After mixing in everything but the salt, you let it sit before you worked it. And that kneading? You don’t do it. You use a completely different folding technique. And there are very good reasons for each difference.
These processes are designed to change the texture, or crumb, of the final product and build flavor over time with slow proofing (rise) between each step. The big advantages of sourdough bread include a denser, dark crust, a chewy texture, and a deeper and more complex flavor than most yeasted breads. In addition, shelf life is longer, meaning your big boule won’t get stale as fast (it can take time to eat all that goodness!).
“Sourdough” is a bit of a misnomer in that most bread made with a starter or levain is not sour. If you want true San Francisco-style sourdough, you intentionally overproof the dough (often adding some rye flour) to develop a hint of sour aftertaste as the dough starts to ferment. I don’t actually care for sourdough myself, though I have…
