Chocolinas? Forgettable: Chocotorta? Extraordinary

These Argentine cookies are not good, but they’re the foundation of the perfect cake

Photo by Chocolina

Chocotorta, on the other hand, is something extraordinary. The only thing that stands between the two is milk, dulce de leche, sour cream, and time.

The process of assembling chocotorta is ritualistic. You dunk the first cookie in a bowl of cold milk and set it in the corner of a tin pan. You repeat this step until you’ve blanketed the entire pan with milky cookies. Then comes a generous layer of dulce de leche and sour cream, mixed together in a ratio that you can never measure, online recipes be damned. It’s a product of intuition that comes and goes with age, becoming perfectly tangy-sweet with just enough experience, and then progressively less sweet as the palate matures. Then another layer of cookies, another layer of cream. Repeat until you reach the desired height, usually five cookies tall. Refrigerate for a few hours and serve.

Photo by Laura Grimaldi
Nadine Zylberberg’s family — the author is on the left.

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