‘Food Was More Central to Ramadan Than Any Other Time of Year.’

Memories of sehri and the morning meal in Pakistan

Illustrations: Sumayya Ansari

Although I live in Scotland now, throughout the month of Ramadan, I look back to the pre-dawn hustle in my family’s kitchen in Pakistan, where I grew up. It was always such a novelty preparing for the first roza, or fast in Urdu, and though it’s a month of abstinence, it is…