From Sit-ins to Soul Food

Sixty years after Greensboro, taking on racism in restaurants

Lisa Rab
Heated

--

Photo: Klaus Vedfelt

When chef Michael Bowling moved to Charlotte, North Carolina, from Washington, D.C. eight years ago, his professional future looked bright. He had cooked dinner at the James Beard House in New York and was starting a gig as executive chef at an upscale Southern restaurant. But after that venture folded in 2012, Bowling discovered it was nearly impossible to land another head chef position in Charlotte. He launched a food truck and became a personal chef, all while sending out resumes and marveling at the silence he received.

Finally, a group of chef friends of different races sat him down and explained that no one would hire him because he was black. “People are afraid to put a black chef to be the head of a restaurant in the middle of the South,” Bowling, 42, says. Owners are worried that customers will be turned off by the sight of him, he says, especially in an era when “rock star” chefs are the public face of a new restaurant. Bowling removed his photo from his resume and website, hoping to land more interviews. In the past year, he’s been featured in Food & Wine magazine and The Washington Post. Yet as of February 2019, he still had not been offered an executive chef job.

--

--

Lisa Rab
Heated
Writer for

Lisa Rab is an investigative journalist whose work has appeared in outlets such as The Washington Post Magazine and Politico Magazine.