‘Great British Bake Off’ Is a Strange Vehicle for Change

The show raises profiles of POC while symbolizing an implicitly white Britishness

Photo: Benjamina Ebuehi Instagram
‘The New Way to Cake’ by Benjamina Ebuehi, Page Street Publishing. Photography by Holly Wulff Petersen.

Ebuehi is clear on one thing, though: This is not a Nigerian baking book. She has had to resist the industry’s compulsion to turn her identity into a selling point, with some publishers keen for a unique West African “spin.”

Ruby is a food writer for Taste, The Guardian, ELLE, Eater and more. She is the author of Eat Up! and two recipe books, Crumb and Flavour.

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