‘Great British Bake Off’ Is a Strange Vehicle for Change

The show raises profiles of POC while symbolizing an implicitly white Britishness

Ruby Tandoh
Heated

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Photo: Benjamina Ebuehi Instagram

When she first got the message asking if she’d be interested in writing a baking book, Benjamina Ebuehi thought it was a scam.

After reaching the quarterfinals of the “Great British Bake Off” in 2016 (and being defeated at the hands of a fiendishly difficult Tudor-themed baking challenge), she’d approached a few British publishers without success.

“There was just not much interest,” she explained over coffee in a North London branch of social enterprise Luminary Bakery, an initiative providing training and support for women who experienced gender-based violence, and for which Ebuehi serves as an ambassador.

So when Page Street Publishing offered her not only a publishing contract, but one that would allow her to write the book she’d been dreaming of — with the photography, styling, and design she’d always imagined — she was suspicious. “I sent it to my agent like, ‘Are these guys legit?’” she laughed. She remembered thinking that it all sounded too good to be true.

For those who are spun through the “Great British Bake Off” mill, those things that were once clearly delineated — possible, plausible, dream, and…

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Ruby Tandoh
Heated
Writer for

Ruby is a food writer for Taste, The Guardian, ELLE, Eater and more. She is the author of Eat Up! and two recipe books, Crumb and Flavour.