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How Life in Japan Influenced Gramercy Tavern’s Menu

When you can make sure that the food is appropriately connected to a context, it becomes long-lasting’

Kaki Okumura
Heated

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Watercolor illustration of storefronts on a city street. One of them says “N.S. Meyer, Inc.”
Illustrations: Kaki Okumura

Michael Anthony is the executive chef and partner of the Michelin-starred American restaurant Gramercy Tavern. Established in 1994, it is regularly rated as one of the most popular restaurants in the city and has become a beloved establishment in NYC fine dining.

But what makes Anthony compelling to me is not his long list of professional accolades, but that he speaks like a dad — with an eagerness and excitement to share his knowledge with everyone. He is known for his philanthropic work: He is an active board member of NYC-based nonprofit God’s Love We Deliver, and, through his restaurant, connects with local schools to teach about the joy of eating healthy and locally produced foods.

For a chef so closely defined by his work in contemporary American cuisine, it was surprising to me when I discovered that Anthony spent his early years training in Tokyo. When I got the chance to ask him some questions, it was fascinating to understand how his time in Japan shaped his professional philosophy.

KO: French and Japanese cuisine are both popular cuisines, and you studied in both countries, but when you first arrived

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