Bittman Basics

3 Steps For Making Any Soup

Whether you’re following a recipe or improvising, they remain the same

Photos: Romulo Yanes

With such long stretches at home — while trying to limit trips to the market — we’re cooking with what we have, whether it’s a handful of root vegetables and a can of diced tomatoes; or half a chicken, some aromatics, and dried mushrooms. Turning a collection of ingredients into a soup can be a simple, satisfying process: and no matter what ingredients you have on hand, the steps remain the same.

This basic formula will yield about 6 cups of soup—enough for 4 bowl-sized servings.

Brown

For a meaty soup, heat 2 tablespoons of butter or oil over medium heat and cook up to one pound of bacon, sausage, or cubes of pork shoulder or beef chuck until the meat begins to brown and crisp, 5 to 10 minutes.

Add aromatic vegetables and cook until they start to color and soften (for vegetarian soup, start here): Cook at last 2 cups chopped aromatics — like onions, shallots, celery, carrots, garlic, and/or ginger — in the butter or oil until they’re soft and golden, 5 to 10 minutes. Remember to sprinkle with lots of salt and pepper. Once everything is sizzling and browned, add herbs or spices, tomato paste, or citrus zest. Start with small quantities (say a teaspoon or two); you can always add more when finishing the soup.

Broth

Broth is the result of cooking liquid with the flavor base you created in the Brown step. You can use water, stock, juice, wine, beer, or a combination. Go easy on juice or wine, since they have a strong flavor, but a splash mixed with water or stock can be wonderful. Chopped tomatoes — fresh or canned — are another option to replace some of the liquid. They become saucy and add a brightness that complements many other ingredients. Start with 3 cups liquid and as the soup cooks, be prepared to add up to 2 cups…