This Restaurant Did More than Introduce Chicago to Roasted Goat

The story behind Birrieria Zaragoza and its magical dish

Left to right: Jonathan Zaragoza, Miguel Segura, and Juan Zaragoza at Birrieria Miguel at La Barca in Jalisco, inspiration for Birrieria Zaragoza in Chicago. Photo: Jim Newberry
Surtido de birria tatemada at Birrieria Zaragoza, 4852 S. Pulaski, Chicago. Photo: Jackie Rivas
Tonio Zamora making machito. Photo: Jim Newberry
Ramiro Sanchez tending to fire in clay ovens at Miguel Segura’s home in La Barca, Jalisco. Photo: Jim Newberry
Chopping meat at Birrieria Miguel in La Barca, Jalisco. Photo: Jim Newberry
Roasting chivo in a fire pit in Oaxaca. Photo: Jim Newberry
Preparing to remove chivo from the fire pit after it roasted all night. Photo: Jim Newberry
Juan Zaragoza holds out chivo for a puppy in Oaxaca. Photo: Jim Newberry

I’m a senior writer for the Chicago Reader, and the senior editor of Kitchen Toke, the magazine of culinary cannabis.

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