In Search of Peak Mac

In the pantheon of soul food, mac and cheese is one of the most important dishes

Verdell Walker
Heated

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Rudisill for Getty Images

It finally happened the day before Thanksgiving in 2017.

I knew I’d done it the moment I slipped that first forkful into my mouth. The pasta was perfectly tender, neither too firm nor too soft. The cheeses combined into a heavenly blend of sharpness, richness, and saltiness with the right gooey, melty factor. My chosen seasonings gave just enough oomph without overpowering the dish. I let out a whoop of joy, turned on some Beyonce, and danced around my tiny New York City kitchen in triumph, waving my fork in the air like a majorette’s baton.

It took a few years, but I had finally achieved peak mac.

In the pantheon of soul food, mac and cheese is one of the most important dishes. Few other foods, except for perhaps fried chicken, evoke the same level of passion, intensity, and strong opinion that mac does. In the African American community, one’s ability to make great mac is considered a leading indicator of your overall culinary skills. If you can’t make mac, you can’t call yourself a good cook. Likewise, if you bring bad mac to Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner, your dish contribution privileges will be revoked forever.

At its core, mac is a pretty simple…

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