This Is the Magic Spice for Cucumbers
Sichuan peppercorns make this an addictive side
After, whatever, 10 or more years of less-meatarianism, or whatever you want to call it, I once again recognize, or want to make some noise about, the importance of the stir-fry.
I wrote at least once that the stir-fry is among the three most important recipes in anyone’s repertoire (the others are rice and beans, and chopped salad). In large part, that’s because a) you can vary the technique infinitely and b) the stir-fry is, at its soul, a low-meat dish.
What it’s not, to me at least, is a one-pan dinner: It wants a salad, or something fresh, raw, crisp. That’s where the chopped salad comes in, and although I’m not against having a European-oriented salad with an Asian-oriented stir-fry, there are times when you’re dying for Sichuan-style cucumbers — or at least I am. Especially at this time of year, as we’re rounding out cucumber season.
The combination of chile, Sichuan peppercorns (these are good), and garlic simply kills what, growing up, I knew as “cucumber salad” — mayonnaise and/or sour cream and dill. The changeover is as if both I and cucumber salad grew up. For a high-impact, high-flavor salad that’s both refreshing and stimulating, there is nothing better.
Here’s my take. My recommendation is that you start with this level of seasoning and then taste, taste, taste: You might want more soy, chile, garlic, and so on. It’s unlikely you’ll want less.
Cucumber Salad, Sichuan-Style
Makes 3 or 4 servings
Time: 30 minutes, largely unattended
Refreshing, bright, and buzzing with Sichuan peppercorns and chile, this dish bears no resemblance to the cucumber salads of my youth (and it’s pretty perfect).
Ingredients
1 pound cucumbers
About 2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns
1 small clove garlic
1 teaspoon minced fresh jalapeno or other hot chile, or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon lime juice or rice vinegar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Chopped cilantro for garnish, optional
Instructions
If the cucumbers are seedy (you’ll know as soon as you cut into one), cut them in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a spoon. (If they’re not seedy, don’t!) Chop the cucumbers; I like ½-inch or slightly bigger pieces. Put them in a colander or strainer and sprinkle with the salt and sugar; toss a bit and let sit for 20 or 30 minutes.
Grind the peppercorns in a spice grinder. (If you have a spice grinder that can handle it, add the garlic and chile, too.) Otherwise, mince the garlic and chile and combine with the peppercorns.
When the cucumbers look darker and slightly shriveled, toss the colander a few times to remove as much liquid as possible that’s clinging to them. (You don’t have to rinse; if anything, you’ll wind up adding salt.) Put them in a bowl and add all the other ingredients except cilantro. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then garnish with cilantro and serve — room temperature is best.
Mark Bittman has written about food and cooking for nearly 40 years, and has published 30 books, including the “How to Cook Everything” series and “VB6.” Newsletter at markbittman.com.
