My Life-Long Love Affair With Biryanis

The history and techniques behind the making of this iconic dish

Hyderabadi kacchi mutton “dum” biryani, topped with fried onions, saffron milk, rose petals and mint — Photo by Khusro Jaleel

It was utter mayhem. People were lying on the floor, not in agony but in ecstasy. They had just eaten my mother’s Sindhi mutton biryani with dried plums, lemons, and potatoes.

“Oh my god,” my cousin exclaimed, as he lay sprawled across the floor cushions. “That was…