My Life-Long Love Affair With Biryanis
The history and techniques behind the making of this iconic dish
It was utter mayhem. People were lying on the floor, not in agony but in ecstasy. They had just eaten my mother’s Sindhi mutton biryani with dried plums, lemons, and potatoes.
“Oh my god,” my cousin exclaimed, as he lay sprawled across the floor cushions. “That was incredible!” Satiated and satisfied, everyone went to sleep. At 3 p.m. We take our siestas seriously, you know!
Biryanis are fabled across the Indian subcontinent for having that effect on people. It is one of those dishes that people may have tried in their local Indian restaurant, but few really stop and think about the cultural and historical significance of this dish, as well as the skill required to prepare it. A perfectly executed biryani will make you aghast with joy. You will remember it and you will make sure your friends remember it, for days or months thereafter.
At its core, a biryani is not that dissimilar to pilaf or pilau rice. You need meat (or vegetables). You need sauce or stock. You need rice. And you’re done.
But wait, that’s just rice and meat without any soul! Pancakes without butter? A full English breakfast without eggs and sausages? Nobody wants to eat that!
