No Spanish Dish Has Been as Misunderstood as Paella

On the Fourth of July this year, having volunteered to cook dinner for my wife and her parents at their home in southwestern Florida, I fired up the grill on the patio, like so many other Americans on that midsummer holiday. What I put on the fire, though, once the coals were glowing hot, wasn’t hot dogs or burgers or ribs. It was paella.