There’s a Reason Americans Don’t Like Tea

Contrary to 2020 predictions, it’s not going to be the next big trend — and that’s a good thing

Max Falkowitz
Heated

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All photos by Johnny Fogg

Have you heard the news? Tea, one of the world’s oldest beverages, second only to water in daily drinking, is so hot right now. The sober-curious are guzzling it, with more than a little help from savvy Instagram marketers. The wellness industrial complex is making a mint on matcha face masks. Fine dining restaurants are launching high-end tea programs to rival their bar menus. And nootropic nuts love tea’s so-called calming compound, L-theanine, almost as much as CBD.

The way Thrillist’s Kevin Alexander put it in October, spotlighting the tea industry’s annual trade show in Las Vegas, “the energy around the American artisanal tea world feels much like the craft cocktail scene in the late ‘90s.” Finding himself among a crew of tea nerds that trade single-bush oolongs like teens used to exchange mixtapes, Alexander’s narrative brims with optimism about tea’s bright American future: “We’re still in those early adopter stages…but it’s professionalizing slowly….The true believers are making progress.” It’s only a matter of time, it seems, before Good Tea is as great an American success story as third-wave coffee or natural wine, with similar mainstream recognition.

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