Soufflé, Boomer
To romance a new generation of diners, pastry chefs are pulling the 17th-century classic out of retirement
The peach soufflé rose from its ramekin like a miniature volcanic island. Its exposed sides and surface, which held a scoop of tangy ice cream spun from sheep’s milk yogurt, were so neat and clean they appeared laser-cut. Beneath, the pink soufflé’s body seemed impossible, a matrix of suspended microbubbles as structurally sound as fruitcake and ephemeral as Champagne foam. Each spoonful delivered such intense, ripe peach flavor, you might subconsciously wipe at the phantom juice dribbling down your chin.
This was the best dessert I ate last year, and it’s not lost on me that the classic finale came from Gotham Bar & Grill, a 1980s Manhattan landmark focused on revamping its image to resonate with a modern audience. Ron Paprocki is the dessert’s creator. He’s had a soufflé on Gotham’s menu since becoming pastry chef in 2012, which puts him ahead of the curve. Soufflés have always been around, but like shy chanterelles hiding in the damp spring earth, you had to go looking for them. Now, it feels like soufflés are finding us, everywhere we go. Lemon-chevre at Potager in Denver. Oatmeal at Vernick Coffee in Philly. Last August, Dallas got a restaurant dedicated to soufflés, Rise №1, where the types range from creamed…
