Chefs

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Among other things, a lot of chowchow

Photos: Carrie Solomon

By Carrie Solomon and Adrian Moore

This Q&A with Carla Hall is an excerpt from Chefs’ Fridges: More Than 35 World-Renowned Cooks Reveal What They Eat at Home, released in May and the second book from the authors, following Inside Chefs’ Fridges, Europe.

Heated: You seem to do a lot of batch cooking.

Carla Hall: For our Thanksgiving and Christmas, we always have collard greens and chowchow, which is a pickle relish. I grew up eating chowchow. The first time I had to make chowchow was for an event. So I thought if I’m making it for them, then I’m…


Le Cirque’s Sirio Maccioni was one of a kind

Photo: Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images

Le Cirque is French for “the circus,” and Sirio Maccioni, who died this week in Tuscany, was every bit the ringleader of the once-legendary New York restaurant. It’s hard to understand a person’s magnetism without being in front of them. It wasn’t just his bravado, good looks, and commanding presence. Anyone who was in Sirio’s company knew they were in the presence of someone larger than life.

In the mid-1990s, I was early in my tenure as a young chef in the original Le Cirque on east 65th Street, where I ended up working for around five years. The restaurant…


Q&A

The chef talks about the fires in his homeland and how Drought Angels is making a difference

Curtis Stone at Maude. Photo: Ray Kachatorian

Australian native Curtis Stone is devoting this year to helping farmers devastated by the bushfires and partnering with Drought Angels — a female-founded Australian nonprofit that provides resources for farmers affected by drought and natural disasters.

Andrea Strong spoke with the Los Angeles-based Michelin-starred chef, restaurateur, television star, author, and culinary entrepreneur about climate change, the importance of second chances, and how Michelin makes him work harder.

Andrea Strong: In 2016, you started #Commit2One, where you devote one year to a different organization that is important to you. You have already raised money for the National Young Farmers Coalition, Chrysalis, AdoptTogether, and Share Our Strength. What inspired you to start this work?

Curtis Stone: We were getting a lot of requests from big amazing charities and also from local schools and community-based organizations. …


It’s the key to improving your life — as well as restaurant culture

Illustration: bubaone via Getty Images

One night in 2014, I was cooking while heavily drunk. It wasn’t the first time. Near the end of service, one of my cooks did something to rile me up, and in a fit of rage I never experienced before, I forcefully grabbed him by the face. The next day, I received an email from someone on my team. The message was blunt: If I walked into my own restaurant, EL Ideas in Chicago, the entire team would walk out. What’s worse was my apartment is directly above the restaurant, so for two excruciating nights, I sat on my couch…


The lessons I learned from hitting rock bottom, and what they say about life in the restaurant industry

Having one’s mise en place under control is inseparable from being successful in a professional kitchen. Loosely translated as having “everything in its place,” the term reflects the spirit of working in a clean, timely, and organized fashion. But for our first five years at my Chicago restaurant, EL Ideas, the phrase held a second, more blasphemous meaning. For us it meant: “Let’s stop prepping and go do a shot.”

As EL quickly became known for the intimate interaction between diners and chefs, it became customary for us to do shots with our guests both during and after service. Many…


Turns out the Cincinnati Bengals like veggies

Photo by The Passion Plate

Chef Kymberly Wilbon travels to Cincinnati’s Paul Brown Stadium every day to deliver lunch and dinner to private clients she lovingly refers to as her “players” — members of the Bengals, her hometown NFL team.

She lugs a hefty insulated duffle bag stuffed with extra-large pre-portioned meals sealed up in king-sized carry-out containers, each one brimming with vibrant roasted root vegetables, toasted grains, flashed greens, and braised proteins. “My food is seasonal, organic, unexpected, and local,” she declares, branding her healthful take on soul food.


Dan Giusti, founder of Brigaid, talks about the challenges, three years in, of trying to change public school lunch

All photos: Brigaid

Chef Dan Giusti left his job as Head Chef at Noma, in Copenhagen, and returned to the U.S. to attempt the seemingly insurmountable: to change the public school lunch program. It’s a beyond complicated process, one with many challenges — but also many rewards. The goal? To get kids eating real food for lunch. Every day. (Just hold the chopped herbs.)

In 2016, Brigaid partnered with the public schools in New London, Connecticut, followed by the Morris high school campus in the Bronx in 2018.

Kate Bittman: You say that schools have gradually lost their ability to cook. …

Heated

Food from every angle: From Medium x Mark Bittman

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