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The story behind Birrieria Zaragoza and its magical dish

Left to right: Jonathan Zaragoza, Miguel Segura, and Juan Zaragoza at Birrieria Miguel at La Barca in Jalisco, inspiration for Birrieria Zaragoza in Chicago. Photo: Jim Newberry

I Fucking Love This Restaurant features writers’ favorite places that feed communities around the country.

Almost 12 years ago, I pulled up to a storefront with hand-painted signage in Chicago’s southwest side Archer Heights neighborhood. My friends and I heard something about roasted goat, “birria tatemada,” a super specific regional variant of the more widespread braised stew originally from the Mexican state of Jalisco. That’s all we knew about the place, and it appeared that it was all we’d find out that afternoon since it had closed hours earlier.

As we peered through the window, a head poked out from…


Food from every angle: From Medium x Mark Bittman

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