Farmers Market

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It’s safer and there are no fees — for now

A vendor stands near pastries at a stall in the Dupont Circle Market in Washington, D.C., on April 5, 2020. Photo: Daniel Slim/AFP/Getty Images

The weekly Sunday morning market is a crown jewel of outdoor life in D.C., as much of a weekend destination as it is a mecca for farm shoppers. In the peak of summer, the market can draw over 10,000 shoppers with more than 50 vendors.

In the time of Covid-19, though, managing a market the size of FRESHFARM Dupont Circle is a feat. But it is essential, and it’s been deemed such, as a market in one of the many states that declared markets as necessary as a grocery store, allowing them to continue to operate through the pandemic.

But…


The ancient art of Campo Rosso’s Tardivo

Photo by Andrea Strong.

There’s a greenhouse in Eastern Pennsylvania where the sun never shines. All of its clear glass panels are covered, shrouded in dark cloth, keeping the light away. It is here that the Tardivo grows, in pans of water, “forced” to sprout new leaves, sending candy-striped fingers reaching out toward the inky darkness.

Tardivo is a variety of radicchio native to Veneto, in northern Italy, where all chicories are named for their villages, like wines named after regional grapes. …


Haymarket is vital to the city of Boston

A woman shops at Haymarket. Photo by Jonathan Wiggs/The Boston Globe via Getty Images

“How much?” The man, in his 60s, from China, points to the mounded scallions on the right of the stand.

“Three for one dollar,” says Ana Contreras, 36, who arrived in Boston from Mexico nine years ago and has been working in Haymarket ever since. Contreras owns the stall with her friend Jessica Hernández, from El Salvador. The customer gives the slightest of nods. Ana extends a red plastic scoop duct-taped to a wooden handle to take his dollar bill, carefully unpeeled from a small roll. …


Why it matters

Judy Davidson for Getty Images

Welcome to Hometown Appetites, a recurring look at the way this country eats, neighborhood by neighborhood.

The most underappreciated farmers market in America is in my hometown, the North Carolina state capital of Raleigh.

Open every day, all year round, the beating heart of the place is the 30,000-square-foot covered shed for farmers that grow produce and plants, nearly all from North Carolina. The 75-acre complex also has three restaurants: a biscuit and hot dog stand; a meat-and-three where most of the threes are procured on-site; and a Calabash-style seafood restaurant where the catch comes from the coast, just two…

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