Oaxaca

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A beloved chef returned to Oaxaca to cook with his family: Alfonsina is a celebration of homecoming

Photo: Jorge Leon Leon

On a dirt road a few miles from the Oaxaca City airport, the prodigal son has come home. A little more than a year ago, Jorge Leon left his position at Mexico City’s most celebrated restaurant, Pujol, to move back to his neighborhood of San Juan Bautista la Raya and cook with his mother, Elvia Leon Hernández, and his three siblings. It wasn’t a spur-of-the-moment decision; Jorge had saved up for the new kitchen, dining room, and bar he envisioned.

“We spent years making it little by little. At a certain point, I didn’t know how long it would take…

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Food from every angle: From Medium x Mark Bittman

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