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To romance a new generation of diners, pastry chefs are pulling the 17th-century classic out of retirement

Gotham Bar & Grill’s peach soufflé. Photo: Evan Sung

The peach soufflé rose from its ramekin like a miniature volcanic island. Its exposed sides and surface, which held a scoop of tangy ice cream spun from sheep’s milk yogurt, were so neat and clean they appeared laser-cut. Beneath, the pink soufflé’s body seemed impossible, a matrix of suspended microbubbles as structurally sound as fruitcake and ephemeral as Champagne foam. Each spoonful delivered such intense, ripe peach flavor, you might subconsciously wipe at the phantom juice dribbling down your chin.

This was the best dessert I ate last year, and it’s not lost on me that the classic finale came…


Food from every angle: From Medium x Mark Bittman

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