The Humble Beauty of a Japanese Uni Harvest
It starts in the morning darkness when the water is still
“We can only go out when the ocean is like glass,” I am told by an uni fisherman preparing for his morning work on Japan’s remote Rebun Island off the northwestern tip of Hokkaidō.
Hokkaidō is famous for its seafood. The nearly year-round cold waters offer a bounty of options, but by far the most compelling is uni — its sweetness and creamy texture meld with intense umami richness. Uni caught during the winter season is more prized because it’s fattier and sweeter.
Each town has its own catch limit during the seasons, so fishermen wake up each permitted day before dawn to assess the state of the water. If the sea is still and black, they know that they can begin their preparations. I visited during the summer season, which is roughly June to August.
The Japanese term gyoshi translates to “fishing master,” and in the case of sea urchin fishermen, there is little wonder why. The traditional method of harvesting sea urchin demands excellent balance, dexterity, and knowledge of the sea. The frigid waters require them to wear a dry-suit top as well as an additional layer of dry gloves up to the elbow to keep arms warm and hands nimble. Each fisherman sets out alone at 4:30 a.m. to begin his work.
