The Simple Joys of Steak Frites
Smothered in bearnaise sauce
Every year for my birthday, my wife asks me what I want for lunch and I always answer with the exact same response — steak frites smothered in béarnaise. To me, it is one of the world’s greatest dishes.
Sure, the rich, meaty flavor coupled with the crunch of fries contrasted by a sharp béarnaise sauce feels decadent. Some might even attribute this to my caveman's brain and say that eating meat is genetically hard-wired into us. But what I love most about steak frites is the strong emotional and cultural connection I feel when I eat it. Gastronomical deja vu.
It reminds me of visiting France in the 1970s with my French-born mother. Each trip began and ended in Paris, where my mother delighted in introducing me to the city’s gastronomic pleasures. It often started with sentimental favorites, like a pristine raw seafood tower at Maison Alsace on the Champs Elysées or braised pig feet at Pied de Cochon. We usually ended up late night in some dank brasserie with steak frites and green salad.