The Troubling Economics of Food Halls

What lies beneath the Instagrammable veneer of the food hall? In at least some cases, a perfect capitalistic machine

Photos by Tom O’Connor

Kendall Dix had a dream. Or, really, he had a nightmare, one familiar to any line cook: He woke at night, clammy, feeling the years slipping past, knowing that soon enough he’d be that sweaty old man still…