This Squash and Spaghetti Dish Will Become a Winter Weeknight Go-To
A most basic plate of pasta with one delicious addition
I cannot overstate the perfection of spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, and hot chile— aglio, olio e peperoncino — gussied up with only a handful of chopped parsley.
Tinkering with perfection is often a case study for the law of diminishing returns. There are delicious exceptions: Pasta with clams, for instance, is built on that garlic-oil-chile foundation. And I think I’ve come upon another.
Last week I was staring at a kabocha squash that had been on display in the dining room for a couple of weeks. It was doing fine, as winter squashes generally do, but Jackie and I agreed it was time to eat it. I halved it, scooped out its seeds, and cut it into wedges before arranging it in an oven-proof frying pan with a good tablespoon (15g) of butter and a sprinkling of salt, and roasting it until tender but not in the least mushy: It took about 35 minutes at 375ºF (190ºC), but timing will depend on the density and moisture content of your squash (you can use any variety you like, not just kabocha), so start checking after 20 minutes but don’t be surprised if it takes as long as 40 minutes.
When it is done, cut off a skin-on piece and taste it to make sure the skin is…
