What the Hell Is This Cookie?

An investigation

Illustrations: Emmy Kastner

Let me tell you about my favorite cookie: It’s mildly lemony and has a pleasantly thick chewiness that comes from being boiled before it’s baked, like a bagel. Then, while still warm, it’s dipped in a thin anise-flavored glaze that shatters slightly when you bite into it. It is not — and this is crucial — too sweet.