You’ll Want to Make Breakfast for Dinner This Week

It’s hard to resist dishes like chilaquiles, our spin on a Hangtown fry, and a red-eye ham hash

Chilaquiles. Photo: Alleko

Three breakfast recipes — only one with eggs. In the case of chilaquiles, I can make a convincing argument for calling a bowl of tortilla chips dinner, especially if they’re coated in homemade salsa roja. In the souffled Hangtown fry, the eggs and oysters are so good together, that for once, the bacon plays second fiddle. And as for that red-eye ham hash, with its quirky, old-school, coffee and ketchup sauce, the work — i.e., chopping — is steady, well-paced, and highly rewarding.

Chilaquiles With Black Bean Relish

Makes: 4 servings
Time: 1 hour

Ingredients

• 2 large guajillo or other medium-hot dried chiles
• 2 cups boiling water
• ¼ cup good-quality vegetable oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored, peeled, seeded, and chopped, with their liquid (about 3 cups — or canned are fine)
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tablespoon sugar (optional)
• 1 1/2 cups cooked black beans (or 1 15-ounce can), drained
• 2 ripe avocados
• 4 scallions, chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 cup fresh cilantro
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 12 ounces tortilla chips

Instructions

1. Put the chiles in a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Soak until they are soft and pliable, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and discard stem, seeds, and tough skin, chop the chiles.
2. Put the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the chiles, onion, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, then adjust the heat so it bubbles steadily. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has thickened, 15 to…