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When a Tomato Becomes a Luxury

What makes an ingredient coveted? Colonization plays a role

A large basket overflowing with heirloom tomatoes of various sizes and colors.

This was first posted as the August 17 newsletter, “From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy.” You can sign up here.

August is the time of year when the tomato becomes a luxury item for many. Its ruby-red juiciness, its intensity of flavor — now is the moment at which the mundane becomes…



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Alicia Kennedy

I’m a food writer from Long Island based in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Subscribe to my weekly newsletter on food issues: aliciakennedy.substack.com