When a Tomato Becomes a Luxury

What makes an ingredient coveted? Colonization plays a role

Alicia Kennedy
Heated
Published in
6 min readAug 17, 2020

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A large basket overflowing with heirloom tomatoes of various sizes and colors.
Photo: Fun With Food/E+/Getty Images

This was first posted as the August 17 newsletter, “From the Desk of Alicia Kennedy.” You can sign up here.

August is the time of year when the tomato becomes a luxury item for many. Its ruby-red juiciness, its intensity of flavor — now is the moment at which the mundane becomes…

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Alicia Kennedy
Heated

I’m a food writer from Long Island based in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Subscribe to my weekly newsletter on food issues: aliciakennedy.substack.com