Without Social Media, This Astonishing Restaurant Remains Under the Radar

A beloved chef returned to Oaxaca to cook with his family: Alfonsina is a celebration of homecoming

Photo: Jorge Leon Leon

“Being from Oaxaca, you grow up with an appreciation for a good tortilla, good meat, salsa, chocolate, mole. When you move away, the first thing that you miss is good food.”

Jorge Leon and his mother Elvia Leon Hernández in their restaurant, Alfonsina. Photo by Laura Tillman

At the end of 2018, when Alfonsina was just two months old, New Worlder chose it as restaurant of the year. A year later, it still lacks a website, Facebook page, or Instagram.

Journalist and author based in Mexico. Biography of Chef Eduardo “Lalo” Garcia forthcoming from W.W. Norton in 2021. www.lauratillman.net @latillman

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