Your Nostalgia Dish Says a Lot About You

Mark Bittman’s souffle is one of mine

Photo: margouillatphotos/Getty Images

Unlike Modernist cooking, with its dry-ice showmanship, a souffle has delivered a more old-fashioned theater of sorts for a very long time. I’m inexplicably excited by the fragile poof and shimmy of a souffle as it comes out of the oven. And in the case of a dessert, I love the piercing of its center as an entry point for creme…