You’re Making Mayonnaise Wrong

Don’t worry, it’s an easy fix

Mark Bittman
Heated

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Photo by Aya Brackett

For new cooks, reading that mayonnaise is easy to make at home can feel like a lie. But the first time you get it right — maybe even on your first attempt — you’ll see it’s not all smoke and mirrors. And then you’ll have a sauce to work with that’s infinitely better and more impressive than what the supermarket has to offer.

If you’re worried about eating raw eggs — and I’m not going to argue with you — you can make mayonnaise with pasteurized eggs (though it’s not my first choice).

Demystifying mayonnaise

Mayonnaise is an emulsion, in which oil is dispersed in the water in eggs and vinegar or lemon juice through vigorous stirring, to produce a thick, pale yellow cream. A few basic seasonings balance the flavors. That’s really all there is to it.

Homemade mayos go south when you add the oil too quickly (or less often)or you add too much oil. To help you add the oil in a slow, steady stream, you could put it in a squeeze bottle or a liquid measuring cup with a spout. Or use a teaspoon to add a few drops at a time. If you’re using a food processor, note that many have a small hole in the feed tube, put there specifically for this purpose; you put the oil in the tube and it drips out. (I have drilled holes in feed tubes without…

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