You’ve Probably Never Had Real Soy Sauce

I realized I hadn’t, so I set out to ferment my own

Sumayya Ansari illustrations

I’d never even wondered what soy sauce was, really, until last summer, when I listened to Shunan Wang, the owner of Tea Drunk, wax rhapsodic about the complexities of the stuff, swooning over its citric notes as if it were a fine wine or whiskey.